Time travel with Henry VIII at this romantic regal castle escape

Hidden at the heart of the glorious Gloucestershire countryside sits Thornbury Castle, a palatial 16th century property alive with Tudor heritage, awash with romantic allure.

Once the majestic honeymoon haven of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn, now an intimate retreat inviting guests to dine, rewind and retrace their royal footsteps, this opulent slice of renaissance paradise is a gleaming jewel in the Relais and Chateaux crown.

Captivated by its grandeur and undeniable stately splendour, my husband and I were enamoured on winding approach by a striking church silhouetting the imposing stone-walled castle, flanked by tall trees, fountained courtyard, labyrinth and glorious gardens.

A captivating throwback to rich Tudor rule, our brief pre check-in exploration confirmed every inch of the coveted castle, restaurant and grounds to be a fitting testament to a time when décor was lavish, interiors elaborate and royalty reigned supreme.

Boasting 27 luxurious bedchambers - including the regal Henry VIII Suite in which the King and Anne Boleyn secluded for 10 days in 1535 from Bristol’s plague - each bespoke bedroom takes its name from one of the fiery monarch’s six wives or other famous Tudor figures.

Warmly welcomed with a tour of the grand lounge, where we subsequently enjoyed afternoon tea, we were shown the library and restaurant before being led through a lowered archway to the Catherine Parr bedchamber, Henry’s last wife and namesake of a seductively splendid home for our two-night stay.

Unlocking the heavy wooden door with a traditional barrel key, we were transported back to bygone days of banquets, betrothals and beheadings, stepping onto plush patterned carpet paired with heavy claret curtains fit for a king.

Two enormous throne-like chairs graced a dark, lamp-topped table matching drawers and mirrored dressing table, whilst exposed stone walls, dimly-lit wooden chandelier and open imitation fireplace stirred evocative yesteryear intrigue.

The piece de resistance, a mahogany four-poster bed with gold satin drapes, flirted proudly at chamber centre, an alluring insight into why Thornbury Castle was in 2021 voted The Best Romantic Hotel in Britain by The Times.

Secreted away behind a hidden door so as not to break the spell, a bright, modern bathroom was accessed by moving a huge wall-mounted crucifix, revealing shower, double sink, underfloor heating, robes and slippers - one of three contemporary twists, the others being flat screen TV and well-stocked mini bar.

Unpacking in the spacious walk-in wardrobe, we enjoyed locally-distilled sloe gin, kindly left on the table in a glass decanter, before heading out for a sunset stroll in the rose-embellished courtyard and Goodly Garden, where the ladies once gathered to gossip amid the heady scent of herbs and flowers.

By nightfall, as the castle awoke in illuminated glory, we’d worked up quite an appetite – ideal for an evening of fine dining in its well-renowned 3 AA Rosette restaurant.

As carnivorous King Henry surveyed the eclectic a la carte menu from a masterful portrait on high, no doubt grunting at the absence of wild boar from the well-presented, sophisticated fayre, we sipped clementine gin by candlelight, deciding red meat was a must to avert his royal wrath.

Opting for goat’s cheese mousse with beetroot candied walnuts, and confit chalk stream trout with crab, pink grapefruit and shiso to start, followed by exquisite braised beef shin with garlic, morel mushrooms and Jersey royals, and lamb rump and braised neck with alliums, yew’s curd and lamb jus, we completed the fabulous banquet with fancy cheeses, biscuits and chutney.

Flummoxed by arguably the most important decision – which vino to choose – we were thrilled when Saturday Kitchen’s amiable wine expert, Olly Smith, graciously assisted with a discerning pairing.

Informing my knowledgeable friend of our location’s history, wine offerings and menu choice, he responded with a ravishing red complementing both main courses and time period, accentuating every delicate mouthful to perfection.

Said Olly: “Henry VIII is a bold icon who famously butted heads with the papacy over his separation from Catherine of Aragon in order to wed Anne Boleyn, so it’s fitting to pour an equally bold icon of a wine - with a massive papal connection.

“Beaurenard’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2020 is a splash out treat on this wine list, to match brilliantly with hearty dishes such as beef or lamb, from a corner of France named after the time when the papacy was based in the Rhône Valley. Spot on to raise a glass to Henry and Anne on their honeymoon in defiance of the Pope.”

Retiring to toast the queen hot-headed Henry executed when their daughter Elizabeth I - who went on to reign for 44 years – was just two, we savoured our fireside nightcap in the flickering shadows of the lounge before relishing a royally good night’s sleep in the rarity of a four-poster bed.

During our hearty full English breakfast with cafetiere and pastry basket, an intriguing accompaniment dawned on us – the music. Neither overpowering nor invasive, we noted a barely-there melody enchanted the air at every meal, creating a mellow, relaxed atmosphere and refined, classical ambiance.

Free from modern distractions such as pool, spa and gym, the castle offers a replenishing massage menu as well as a range of traditional Tudor outdoor pursuits, such as lawn falconry, archery and elegant croquet.

Beyond the picturesque lawns lie a crisscross of idyllic country walks, whilst Thornbury’s vibrant town centre, with its quirky mix of quaint cafes, coffee shops, welcoming pubs and elegant restaurants, is a mere five minutes away on foot.

Overlooking the Severn Estuary, the pretty market town is a stone’s throw from bustling Bristol with its attractive harbour, home to an exciting host of attractions, boat trips and water based activities.

Or, for those seeking spa serenity, beautiful nearby Bath with its colourful nightlife, distinctive architecture and revitalising Thermae Roman Spas is a must-visit for a few hours away from the castle’s charms.

Originally conceived and built by Edward Stafford, the only man to rival Henry VIII’s wealth and status, the tempestuous King saw red and accused him of treason, taking control of the castle he’d long coveted soon after.

Following his death in 1547, the Thornbury estate passed down through his legitimate children, Edward VI, son of Jane Seymour, and Mary Tudor, daughter of Catherine of Aragon, and today reigns supreme as a historical monument infused with courtly intrigue, painstakingly restored to retain every last spec of its regal splendour.

A testament to Relais and Chateaux, an esteemed association of individually owned and operated luxury hotels and restaurants spanning 64 countries and five continents, with its seamless, attentive service and unrivalled majestic magnificence, when it comes to romance and historic intrigue, few can hold a candle to Thornbury Castle.

Rates from £299. For more information or to book, visit https://www.thornburycastle.co.uk/ or call 01454 281182