Why Peterborough's Indian gastro pub features in new book

In this new book, the first of its kind, award-winning British-Asian journalist and beer writer David Jesudason visited more than 200 ‘desi pubs’ – a term for hostelries run by British-Indian landlords who have stamped their unique identity on a beloved institution.

The desi pub began as a story of resistance. First established in the 1960s to break the racist colour bar, which saw many non-white customers refused service, they have since evolved into a modern-day celebration of multiculturalism. This is how desis – people with Indian heritage – saved failing pubs and turned them into a joyful festival of mixed grills, naans and curries all washed down with plenty of beer.

David Jesudason said: ‘Desi pubs show what we can achieve when we take on prejudice and fuse the best of two cultures – in this case British and Indian. They also illustrate how we can then successfully – and with little conflict – navigate a post-racism world. This book reflects the stories behind this new beginning, as well as being a guide to the most diverse places to drink pints and eat sizzling platters.

“What amazed me about my journey,” Jesudason adds, “is I discovered the pubs I visited were as much loved by white customers and these people deserve as much praise as the British-Indian drinkers and landlords. They saw their areas change and instead of railing against multiculturalism they embraced how their pubs became true community hubs. Yes, they love their mixed grills but they’re also the vanguard of diversity and are totally under celebrated by the media. Until now.”

The desi pubs – and his experience of them – was behind Ajay Kenth and his wife Shivani launching Tap & Tandoor in Cumbergate in 2019, a year after opening their first similar venture in Solihull.

"For us it was about understanding what a desi pub was and what further refinement to what was traditionally offered was needed, first in Solihull and then here in Peterborough,” said Ajay, a committed craft beer fan..

"It was about better quality food and also drinks that go best with Indian food. We have gone to another level with the food and good quality craft beers that you wouldn’t normally find in a regular or desi pub.

"Craft beers tend to be more highly hopped and that goes well with spicy Indian dishes – we wanted to get away from the idea that you needed to have Kingfisher or Cobra. That is our USP and why we brand ourselves as an Indian gastro pub. We have updated things; it is evolution – a modernisation of what was there before.”

Ajay said they had also made efforts to make the place more family friendly – desi pubs were traditionally male led – and to be not just a restaurant.

"We have plenty of familiar faces who just come in for a drink after work or to meet friend. They just treat it as a normal pub, which is great,” he added.