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With the month of February upon us, we are at last into the final straits of Winter, with its leaden skies and penetrating humidity. Dare we hope for better weather with the Spring, as the crocuses push their way out of the soggy ground and thrushes start to sing in the still bare branches? There is still a little way to go yet, but opening a bottle of Sicilian wine may uncork a little sunshine into your glass whilst we wait.

The island of Sicily, just off the toe of the Italian boot, has one of the most perfect climates for growing wine grapes. A sun-drenched jewel of the Mediterranean, the heat is tempered by sea breezes and a varied topography of plains and mountains, even boasting its own volcano. Trampled over by invading armies for thousands of years, there is a rich history of winemaking and a great variety of soils and microclimates. Wines produced are thus not only full of delicious flavours coaxed out by the Mediterranean sun, but wide ranging in style, both still and sparkling, red, white, rosé and even orange.

Here is a recommended selection to show this wide variety and help bring in a little sunshine whilst awaiting the Spring. Santa Tresa winery is in a 50-hectare estate in Vittoria in south-east Sicily near Ragusa, well-known to fans of Inspector Montalbano! Vittoria has lived and breathed the culture of wine for over 3000 years. Santa Tresa has been making a range of fine wines since 1697 and is a fine example of sustainability and organic wine growing.

Santa Tresa Rina Lanca Grillo Viognier 2023 is an innovative white blend of 70% Grillo and 30% Viognier, made from hand-harvested organic grapes grown on the plateau at nearly 800 feet altitude. Straw yellow and very aromatic, with notes of peach and apricot. Mellow, dry, balanced and delicious with a mineral touch on the finish. On offer from Ocado at an unmissable £10 per bottle and available in independent merchants such as ND John Ltd in Swansea.

Santa Tresa Il Frappato Rosé Spumante Brut is the first wine of its kind from Sicily. Made from the indigenous Frappato red variety, the skins are left for a short period of time before removal, givinga delicate salmon pink colour. Delicate, dry, elegant and refreshing with notes of wild strawberries and lemon peel. £13.95 from independents such as ND John Ltd. Santa Tresa Rina Russa Frappato is a red wine from this temperamental grape variety, making a fresh, light, elegant and fruity wine with low tannins and lovely strawberry fruit. £11.99 from Waitrose Cellar, currently on offer at £9.99.

Cortese Nostru Orange -utan is a somewhat unique Sicilian wine, termed as ‘orange’ wine. Made from a blend of Inzolia and Zibibbo local white grapes, the skins are left to macerate during fermentation, giving the orange colour. Delicious, fruity and fresh with underlying body and flavour. £14.50 from independents such as The Grape Kitchen in South Yorkshire.

Purato Rosé from the extreme west of the island is another organic wine made by a producer with the highest sustainability credentials. Delicately pink, lively, fresh and stylish with red berry fruit flavours. £10.75 from Ocado.

Nero Oro Rosso 2022/3 is made from Nero d’Avola, the red grape most often associated with the island of Sicily. Soft, velvety and full-bodied, in part due to the appassimento method using partially dried grapes. Intense aromas of dark fruit, pepper and tobacco lead to a palate full of damsons, morello cherries and dark plums. Majestic at £11.99 or £8.99 mix six.

On the Grapevine: Bring on the sunshine with fine Sicilian wines