Mildred's - a great new bistro opens in Stamford

Entering the town, from the A1 side at least, you can’t miss the imposing William Cecil hotel on St Martins and now at the heart of the historic building is Mildred’s, a new ‘neighbourhood bistro’.

​And for the more curious, it is named after the impressively intelligent and witty wife of the namesake hotel.

It is an attempt to put the food on offer on the map – make it a destination dining venue in its own right, rather than merely ‘the hotel restaurant’.

To give it a recognisable identity.

It is a simple brief and in Liam Goodwill they have a head chef with the CV and experience to do just that; serve beautifully presented, tasty dishes with a weekly changing menu, daily blackboard specials cooked simply using the best possible ingredients and wines to match.

So if you're after a quick lunch in the restaurant, leisurely afternoon tea catch-ups, dinner, or evening cocktails, Mildred’s has got you covered.

The menu is kept deliberately concise, but on the evidence of a pre-opening visit last week (with half-a-dozen or so options on each of the three courses) covers all the bases and will still have you in several minds what to go for...

There are also some ‘small plates’ – nibbles while you wait for your meal – but we delved straight into the starters after being shown to our table and served drinks in one of the main dining areas – smart but certainly not brash as you might expect in such a historic setting.

On one side of the table we had trout gravlax, served on a slice of sourdough bread, with orange – a great combination.

For me the asparagus: bang in season and fresh as you like – topped with a fried egg complete with runny yoke, and a splash of salsa verde.

The roast lamb rump was soft, pink, nicely rendered around the edge - an absolute delight. The purple sprouting broccoli had a little bite to it and as for the caponata sauce, oh my, it was just wonderful – packed with flavour but it still let the lamb be the star of the show. As for the side serving of creamed potato – a cheddar lover’s idea of heaven.

Equally as impressive across the table was the tandoori-spiced monkfish tail; again the unmistakable Indian flavours were evident but subtle enough to allow the beautiful white meaty chunks of fish to sing. Served with cauliflower, lentils and coriander – and with a side order of salad – another plate cleared.

Of course there was still room for dessert.

First up a delightfully soft and delicate – if decadent – chocolate and salted caramel delice, with a dollop of chantilly cream. Super.

And not to be outdone, strawberries and cream – inside a choux bun – with strawberry ice cream. What’s not to like?

I have to say it is a lovely place, great, attentive and knowledgeable service, still quite formal but without being stuffy.

​Brad Barnes was dining at Mildred’s Bistro, at The William Cecil, St Martins, Stamford. ​

​https://www.mildredsbistro.co.uk/