Peterborough Telegraph Restaurant of the Year lived up to the billing - the mixed grill was just Champion

It was, however, my first visit since chef and owner John McGinn, always one for surprises particularly when it comes to his style and flavours, rebranded the food side of the business Smoke and Embers, on the basis he is now cooking over a huge wood burning firepit.

The firepit is unmissable, what with the restaurant having an open kitchen, and John and his team in full view.

The menu is as eclectic as ever; John’s take on some traditional dishes with a twist, through to Asian influenced food, not forgetting my personal reason for visiting – Wednesday is 16oz champion mixed grill night (£15).

Nights like this are when the Oxgrill come into its own... what a way to cook meat!

The steak was a great example – a great colour to look at, tender and pink in the middle.

The chicken was nicely cooked too, with a subtle, fresh lemon aftertaste, although there was nothing subtle about the full on maple syrup in every bite of the tasty pork.

A non-salty piece of gammon, and flavoursome sausage meat, which showed off the cooking method, completed the meatfest, while the onion reduction was delicious.

Topped off with a fried egg (runny yoke), mushrooms, tomato and a bowl of fries, it was a real treat.

Across the table, Donna had the interesting-sounding lemonade chicken (£12), which, in her words “didn’t lack flavour”. A golden coated breast and a light, fresh salad garnish, to which she added a corn on the cob (£2).

Her saffron sauce was every bit as tasty as it was bright yellow!

The girls were more than happy with hot dog and popcorn chicken, both served with fries, from the children’s menu, and with drinks the bill just hit the £50 mark.

Great food with service to match in a welcoming, friendly setting.

Brad Barnes dines at the Dog In A Doublet at Northside (between Peterborough and Whittlesey) www.doginad.co.uk

Brad’s verdict: 9/10