Restaurant review: The Bombay Brasserie – A flicker of light at Bombay once more

The Bombay Brasserie, Indian Restaurant, Broadway.
The Bombay Brasserie, Indian Restaurant, Broadway.
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Throughout the noughties The Bombay Brasserie was, for me, the shining light of Asian cuisine in Peterborough.

Yes, there were a couple of rivals but the Bombay was always the height of excellence.

Brad Barnes dines at Bombay Brasserie in Peterborough

Brad Barnes dines at Bombay Brasserie in Peterborough

In recent years it seemed to lose its sparkle, both as a venue and what it offered on the plate, and I stopped going. But happily, at least on the strength of this week’s visit it is a little bit more like its old self.

The welcome could have been a bit warmer, and a high chair for the little one would have been nice (although there is bags of room for buggies and car seats), but beyond that the service was fine.

It is still a fine looking restaurant, and very comfortable, but maybe looking a little tired inside.

At lunchtime at least in addition to the main menu there was a set menu for £9.95; we mixed and matched after a plate of enjoyable poppadoms and pickle.

Brad Barnes dines at Bombay Brasserie in Peterborough

Brad Barnes dines at Bombay Brasserie in Peterborough

The prawn puri starter came from the main menu and was a delight; soft, light, warm and fluffy puri with a not-too spicy prawn filling. We have them a lot and it stood up to comparisons.

The main from the special presentations menu was something of a revelation.

I’m always a bit wary of lamb - when it is overcooked and dry it is awful. But the chunks of meat in the lamb karahi were thankfully soft and juicy from first to last and the sauce was a particular treat, packed with onions, peppers and mushrooms but not at all spicy, which suited me.

My only gripe, just a little oily.

From the set lunch menu came two small meat samosas - a nice, crispy outer coating with a spicy filling, served with a salad, and lots of coriander, and a chili dip. A decent start.

Main course was a sizzling platter of chicken shashlik. It wasn’t the biggest serving, but it was from the set lunch menu so we will forgive that, and came with onions, tomatoes and peppers.

Again it was a little oily, but it smelled delicious and the pieces of chicken were nicely cooked. Not the best in town, but still pretty decent.

We also as part of the deal got a very acceptable pilau rice, soft and tasty and it all got eaten, and the vegetable of the day which turned out to be chick peas. Now they 
were lovely - not too soft and soggy and a tasty sauce.

With a drink each the bill was the right side of £40 - and would have been considerably less had we stuck to the set lunch menu which was great value.

It is, for me, not quite the Bombay of old -but it was nice to come away feeling satisfied.

Venue: The Bombay Brasserie, Broadway, Peterborough tel 01733 565606 

Brad’s rating: 7/10