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The Black Horse, Nassington: Good value, hearty fare fit for walker

AS a city creature and relative newcomer to Peterborough, it is rare I venture out to the surrounding villages to forage for food.

AS a city creature and relative newcomer to Peterborough, it is rare I venture out to the surrounding villages to forage for food.I'm a big fan of the country, but, sadly, it isn't a fan of me because, due to allergies to trees, grass and plants, a trip out to a county pub usually ends in sneezing misery.

However, in the winter months, it's a different story, so I decided to brave a cold and foggy night and make the effort to journey out to Nassington to visit the Black Horse, which has been under new management since Adrian Lawrence took it over in November.

And in country pub bingo it was certainly hitting all the numbers - a building originally built in the 17th century, check; original features, check; real fire, check; thirsty locals, check and, fortunately for us, honest pub grub, check .

With the culinary renowned Queen's Head only doors away Adrian has wisely chosen not to compete at the high end, and has designed a value-for-money menu full of pub classics.

He said: "Basically, it is proper pub food and stuff I would want to eat rather than going down the gastro route.

"We get lots of walkers in, and they want something hearty and good value, and that's what we provide."

And Adrian certainly delivers, as my friends Ross and Rachel (yes, really) and I entered the pub ravenous, and left barely able to move.

For starters, Ross and I are sadly predictable and can rarely see past prawn cocktail (4) - true children of the '70s - and we agreed it was one of the best we have eaten, with plenty of prawns, a decent helping of marie rose dressing and accompanied by a generous round of toast.

Rachel's garlic mushrooms (3.50) didn't disappoint either with a good-sized portion which were "very crisp" and "not greasy".

For main, Rachel picked the Mediterranean vegetarian risotto (7), which had a "delightful pesto flavour and was "creamy, without being too rich", accompanied by crunchy garlic bread.

Ross went for a sirloin steak and chips The steak was cooked medium rare as requested and came with all the trimmings - mushroom, onion rings, tomatoes and salad.

I also went for steak as part of a surf and turf (9), which saw me somehow manage to eat a large rump steak, cooked perfectly, along with scampi.

We both agreed the plates were groaning with food and the fat chips were crispy and very tasty.

Pudding was a no-go as I would have had to be taken away in an ambulance, and add a pint of lager each to the bill saw us come in at a credit crunch busting 40.

The pub hopes to attract more village trade, and if it was my local I would be definitely be in there more often than I perhaps should.

As it stands, it might persuade me that country life isn't that bad.

4 out of 5

The Black Horse, 2 Fotheringhay Road, Nassington, Peterborough, PE8 6QU, 01780 782 324

Menu examples:

Soup of the Day - in an edible bread bowl 3.50

Starters

Pat and toast served with a salad garnish - 4

Chef Specials

Cumberland sausage and mash with onion gravy 6.50

Ham, egg and chips 5.50

Spicy bean burger, chips and salad 7

Beer battered cod and chips 7.50

Puddings - All 4

Apple Pie

Apple and blackcurrant crumble

Treacle Sponges

with custard or cream

Kids - All 3.50

Fish and chips

Scampi and chips

Sausage and chips / mash

Sides

Cheesy chips 1.80

Onion Rings 1.95

Details correct at 04/02/10.


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Friday 19 March 2010

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