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Clarkes Restaurant: Flavours worthy of a Michelin star
Lee Clarke, right, with staff at Clarkes Restaurant. Picture: Peterborough ET
Restaurant review: Nigel Thornton visits Clarkes Restaurant,in North Street, Peterborough:
I HAVE always said that Peterborough punches below its weight when it comes to fine dining and up until this weekend I would have always travelled further afield for that truly special meal with a wow factor.
That was until I discovered what appears to be Peterborough’s best kept secret – the newly opened Clarkes in North Street.
Somewhat hidden away in the old Masonic Hall in an area probably better known as ‘takeaway land’ on the corner of North Street at the town end of Lincoln Road, you could be forgiven for not even realising it was there.
But step through the double glass doors into the intimate white walled dining room and you won’t regret it because Clarkes restaurant is what I think the city has been missing for many years.
Clarkes only opened in August this year but is already earning plaudits from those in the know.
And for those foodies out there, Lee has certainly earned his stripes as a chef. Previously working for the likes of the Roux brothers and Marco Pierre-White, could he soon be earning stars too and giving Peterborough its first Michelin-starred restaurant?
Although at the top end of the price range by Peterborough standards, at £30 for two courses or £40 for three, I have never minded paying more when the food really delights –and on this occasion it did.
After much deliberation I opted for the slow-cooked Grasmere pork belly with Loch Duart salmon and a haricot bean salad to start and my wife chose the peppered Brixham squid, anchovies, pink grapefruit and Creaser dressing.
But before the starters came was a surprise amuse-bouche of artichoke soup with popcorn and goats cheese. Delicious!
I was somewhat surprised by the pork and salmon combination but it worked and my wife could not stop raving about her choice so I had to give it a try. The squid was served with the freshest tasting salad of radishes, peashoots, thinly sliced green beans, courgettes and a really punchy dressing, not dissimilar to salsa verde. She said it was the best starter she had ever had and definitely comparable to any dish served in a Michelin star restaurant and I couldn’t disagree.
For main I chose the Madeira-poached fillet of beef with puy lentils, roasted Inkersall Grange Farm carrots and roasted shallots, which was even better than my first course. The dish came immaculately presented (as they all were) and I cannot remember the last time I tasted such succulent beef.
My wife opted for the line caught brill, roasted sweetcorn braised cos lettuce and potted brown shrimp butter and was equally delighted by the fillet of meaty white fish and vegetable accompaniment.
Our budget and our appetite meant we opted for the two course option, which together with a very reasonably priced bottle of Merlot (£13.95) meant the final bill totalled £73.95. Crucially, so good was the meal I rate that as good value, which coming from a Yorkshireman is a genuine accolade.
At the end of the meal, Lee came out of the kitchen to speak to his diners to get their feedback and to tell us a little bit about his vision. With a firm commitment to locally sourced produce and modern British food he told us he works with the city’s Green Backyard project who supply him with fresh vegetables every day along with another local producer.
All in all we had a thoroughly enjoyable evening and before Clarkes graduates from Peterborough’s best kept secret to what I have a sneaking suspicion will be the city’s top restaurant, we will definitely be back again.
10 out of 10
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Information: Clarkes Restaurant, 19 North Street, Peterborough, PE1 2RA, Telephone: 01733 892681, website: www.clarkespeterborough.co.uk
Menu examples:
The menu changes regularly but on the night we visited choices included (£30 for two courses and £40 for three courses)
Starters
Hand-picked Cornish crab, fennel, apple and cucumber relish
Globe artichoke, boiled hen’s egg, picked local vegetables and salad cream
Pan-fried duck’s liver with a nettle risotto and crispy duck skin crackling
Mains
Shepherd’s pie with an herb-crusted lamb cutlet, and beetroot fondant
Cornish mackerel, celeriac remoulade, fondant potato and salsa verde
Leg of chicken stuffed with ham hock and sage and wild mushrooms
Desserts
Pear terrine with gingerbread ice cream and hazelnut sable
Hot chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream
Selection of artisan cheeses:Rosary Goats cheese, Great Walsingham, Coleshill Blue, Norfolk White Lady and Binham Blue
Details correct at 06/10/11
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Wednesday 22 February 2012
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