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Treat yourself - to pig's ears and pig's cheeks



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Published Date: 14 October 2008
ONE supermarket is bringing back cheaper cuts of meat to attract cost-conscious shoppers. But do pig's cheeks, trotters and tails really taste as good as sirloin?
Can you eat them without being physically ill? Jemma Walton found out.
BURGERS are for wimps, chicken drummers are for losers. They're too easy. A pig's foot, though is a different matter. Placing one of those in your cakehole takes real gumption. As does oxtail, or pig cheek.

Reader, bear with me. Don't turn the page and stick to the bland, plump familiarity of the chicken breast. Come with me on this one. Open your mind to eating different parts of an animal. Feel the brisket love.

Because trotters, cheeks and the like can be tasty – apparently – and are also a lot cheaper than the cuts that we're more used to.

With this in mind, Waitrose has decided to stock old-fashioned, less popular and cheaper cuts of meat.

Sadly, pigs' trotters and pigs' cheeks (which are also, weirdly, known as "bath chaps"') are only up for grabs in their John Lewis Food Hall in Oxford Street, London.

Why we are denied the pleasure of the trotter and the cheek is unclear, however, cockneys have got form for guzzling weird things like jellied eels which could plausibly be the reason.

In Waitrose Peterborough, however, we do have ox tails, pig liver, brisket (which is the muscly part of a breast) and pork hock, and several other "forgotten cuts."

I asked the Queensgate branch's meat specialist Vanessa Stabler why I should bother sullying my refined palate with tails and hocks when I could easily tuck into a cheeky packet of chicken kievs or a tasty chunk of fillet steak.

"Well, the 'forgotten cuts' tend to be much cheaper for a start," she said.

"Plus the flavour you get with these cuts of meat is so delicious.

"They tend to have quite a bit of fat on them, and they are often from the muscly part of an animal, which means they need cooking for a long time, but that also means they tend to have a lot of flavour, and are very rich.

"I think cuts such as shoulder and brisket have fallen out of favour not because people are squeamish about them, but because in the past 20 years there has been a fashion for avoiding fat, and these cuts tend to be fatty. That is why I think supermarkets have moved away from stocking them.

"But fat gives a good flavour to a dish, and you can take it off after cooking.

"I don't like cookery shows in the main, but I like Jamie Oliver because he will say 'Right – let's have that' and cook and eat a fatty piece of meat.

"He doesn't mess about."

Vanessa doesn't like chicken, saying that it tends to be mass-produced and has little flavour. "If I have to I'll buy a cornfed free range one," she said. "They cost a bit more, but they taste better."

The most popular cut on her counter is oxtail. "These are great," she said. "The depth of flavour, the richness. Really nice.

The full article contains 533 words and appears in Peterborough ET newspaper.
Page 1 of 4

  • Last Updated: 14 October 2008 11:54 AM
  • Source: Peterborough ET
  • Location: Peterborough
 
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Dan,

Peterborough 14/10/2008 14:15:45
If you want these kinds of cuts, you could do far worse than to try Willow Brook Farm nr Helpston, I've bought Oxtail from there before but made a hash of cooking it so ended up with a tough chewey batch of pieces that were only good for stock.
I'll just have to try cooking them differently next time I guess.
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the cyd that hisses,

Peterborough 14/10/2008 14:22:46
Coming from OOPT North I was bought up on this kind of food.
Only soft Southeners would turn a good meal down.
Mind you I always was told by Southerners years ago Pidgeons where for the poor of the North.
Now they pay £20 to £60 in a posh eating house in London for a Pidgeon breast and lettuce.
3

Bodie,

15/10/2008 14:10:25
When I was young my uncle used to do the annual pig killing on his farm and we would have brawn, fry and liver which tasted far better then than it does today. Where can you get a good brawn these days ? I bought one last week and it was flavourless rubbish !
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